Fixing a purple backlight on an HP DreamColor LP2480zx

The HP DreamColor LP2480zx is a top-of-the-line color-critical monitor that retailed for $3500 and features some really impressive specs, such as a true 10-bit IPS panel, hardware-based calibration, and an RGB LED backlight. Unfortunately, these monitors eventually develop a purple/magenta color cast over the entire screen and calibrating with HP's proprietary solution does not fix the problem. I got my hands on one of these monitors on eBay for around $100 (so around 3% of the retail price) due to the aforementioned purple-tint issue and set out to fix it. Here is my journey.

 

The tech

The first question on many people's minds is "why bother?" Aside from the enjoyment of solving problems and tinkering with electronics, this monitor boasts some seriously impressive specs even by today's standards, despite being released way back in 2008. The monitor was developed by HP in collaboration with DreamWorks Animation (hence the name) and was used for color-critical work. Here are some of the goodies:

  • True 10-bit IPS panel which allows for not 50, not 256, but a whopping 1024 shades of gray and a total of over 1.07 billion colors. The modern-day DreamColor monitors are inferior since they use 8-bit panels with dithering (AFRC).
  • RGB LED backlight which allows for adjustments to the white balance of the display without any loss of color resolution and compensation for wear over time (at least in theory... more on this below).
  • Extremely wide color gamut which exceeds "wide gamut" Adobe RGB and nearly meets the Digital Cinema P3 gamut. This monitor will display colors that most monitors simply can't.
  • "DreamColor Engine" which performs hardware-based calibration of the monitor. This is accomplished via matrix multiplier which allows for some rather sophisticated color transformations. Color space presets can be quickly selected via the press of a button and are meant to be programmed in via a proprietary calibration probe and software, ensuring accurate colors throughout the life of the monitor.
  • A-TW polarizer which greatly reduces "IPS glow", where colors appear washed out when viewed off-angle. You can clearly see the difference between a monitor with and without it in the picture at the top of this page.

The problem

The monitor uses an LG LM240WU5-SLA1 panel with an RGB backlight. Since LEDs can age at different rates (which causes colors to drift over time), LG thoughtfully included a color sensor and a color processing chip (Avago HDJD-J822) to maintain uniformity of colors. This allows the rest of the monitor's electronics to not worry about backlight drift – in fact, the backlight module accepts absolute Yxy coordinates instead of RGB for colors, which HP's circuitry uses to set brightness and white balance.

Unfortunately, the sensor in these panels goes bad within a few years. The failed sensor measures excessive amounts of green and compensates by turning down the green LEDs. Since there is no way to set individual RGB values for the backlight using the panel's interface, HP's circuitry is unable to compensate for this. The best it can do is utilize the DreamColor engine to calibrate the LCD panel, but after a certain point, there simply isn't enough green light for it to meet the characteristics of the desired color space and calibration fails. The purple color is seen at all times, including the "Scanning inputs" message that displays as soon as the monitor is powered on.

 

The whole scenario reminds me of a Douglas Adams quote.

The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair.

There is no way for monitors using this panel to adjust individual R/G/B values of the backlight, whether via proprietary calibration solution like the DreamColor or manual adjustment like most other monitors, because the panel simply does not provide the appropriate commands to do so. (Even LG's own W2420R has an RGB adjustment limited to requesting Yxy coordinates, which would be inaccurate due to the failed sensor.) The sensor that was intended to maintain the backlight's color uniformity over time ended up making the problem far worse.

Exploring the color management system

I read through the datasheet of the Avago color chip and determined that it used the sensor's inputs to drive PWM outputs to control the actual backlight. The system normally operates in a "closed loop" mode where requests for a particular color are modified based on what the sensor is reading. At the factory, the system is put into "open loop" mode and an external colorimeter is used to measure actual values; this data is stored in the chip and is used for calculations during normal use.

After disassembling the monitor, the first step was to unplug the sensor from the LED driver board. I didn't have very high hopes but I powered on the monitor. For the first time, I saw a pure white background in the "check video cable" message, instead of a purple-tinted one. Success! Unfortunately this was short-lived, since any attempts at adjusting the monitor's settings (or even leaving it alone for a bit) resulted in each backlight color fading to a single channel within a few minutes. Only a complete power-down of the monitor would bring back the brief white backlight.

One possible solution would be to modify the factory calibration data on the chip. Unfortunately this would be a short-term solution since the color sensor would continue to wear out (and this wouldn't work if the sensor aged too far). I also lack the equipment and skills to remove and reinstall a surface-mounted chip in order to send it the necessary I2C commands, and the datasheet isn't clear on how to format the data.

Another possible solution would be to use a variable resistor to compensate for the sensor's output. I did not have success with this (splicing the resistor into the green channel). Due to the system operating in a closed loop, having the resistor even slightly off would result in similarly invalid results.

I eventually took the whole panel apart and removed the sensor itself. It was labeled "SD-9 94V-D" on one side and "0831" on the other. Unfortunately I could not find any data online about it, so replacing the sensor itself was out of the question. (And even if I could, it would likely have required factory calibration.)

 

Directly controlling the backlight with an Arduino

At this point I realized that the only feasible option was to directly control the backlight via PWM, bypassing the Avago color chip entirely. I had an Arduino at my disposal (which allows for several channels of PWM). Lacking any real tools for surface-mount work, I used an Xacto knife and needle-nose pliers to break the PWM output pins off of the chip, and then (after much trial and error) managed to solder 3 wires to the pads underneath it. This was the point of no return.

 

I wrote up a quick sketch to cycle an RGB LED through the full color spectrum and uploaded it to my Arduino. Then I plugged the Arduino into the monitor's USB hub, attached the wires, and turned it on. I was not expecting much, but to my surprise, the monitor powered up successfully and the "Check signal cable" message displayed with a fading rainbow of colors!

 

The same thing from another angle:

 

Backlight control software

In order to control the backlight, I created a simple Arduino sketch to hold the 3 PWM pins at a specific value, then listen over serial for new values. I also created a front end application to allow easy control from Windows. To keep things simple, I hard-coded default values (which are applied every time the monitor is powered on) but I could improve the functionality by allowing the Arduino to save those settings.

 

Finalizing the build

The Arduino fit nicely into an empty space near the cooling fan, although the USB plug was a bit too long. I held it in place with tape.

 

I ran the USB cable through a small hole I made in the outer casing of the monitor and plugged it into the hub on the side. This provides the Arduino with power and allows the computer to communicate with the Arduino through the uplink port.

 

Limitations

Monitor controls

Since the color chip has been bypassed, the monitor's brightness and white balance controls are no longer functional. The only way to adjust brightness is through the app. The 3D LUT and matrix multiplier are still functional, however, so it should be possible to calibrate the monitor in hardware and use the color profiles. I'm not sure if the official HP Advanced Profiling Solution will still work as I do not own one.

PWM frequency

The Arduino is unable to output a high enough PWM frequency. Thus, the backlight flickers very noticeably unless it's near maximum. Near the lower end of the range, it looks like a strobe light. This is the biggest downside of my solution at this point; perhaps I can find a better microcontroller with a higher PWM frequency.

USB cable

Since the Arduino is powered via USB, and the backlight is now entirely dependent on the Arduino's PWM signal, the USB cable must be connected at all times. This uses up one of the four USB ports on the monitor.

Conclusion

Here is a demonstration of the final product.

 

If you'd like to attempt the mod yourself or look at my code, you may download it here.

I welcome any suggestions for improvement.

Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2016 at 3:05 AM | Permalink

Comments (111)

Unic
Monday, March 13, 2017 at 1:48 PM
Hi,

I have the same issue my LP2480zx. Congratulations for your work.
I want to try your solution.

I'm not samiliar with Arduino but I can solder pretty well, even on those tiny chips.
Could you do a step by step tutorial to perform this repair procedure ?
In particular, identify the points to solder to the Arduino Board.

Regards.
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Monday, March 13, 2017 at 9:25 PM
@Unic I used the HDJD-SCR00 datasheet to determine which pins were the PWM outputs (pins 14 through 16, see page 3). I used wire from a floppy drive ribbon cable with some solid wires soldered to the other ends.

For the Arduino, you don't have to solder anything. Insert the solid wires into the Arduino's output pins 9 (red), 10 (green), and 11 (blue), then upload the sketch linked at the bottom of this page and run the included control software.
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Unic
Tuesday, March 14, 2017 at 1:57 AM
Hi nookkin,

Thank you.

Indeed, with the datasheet that is more clear to me.

pin #14 (PWN_B) to arduino output pin #11 (blue)
pin #15 (PWN_G) to arduino output pin #10 (green)
pin #16 (PWN_R) to arduino output pin #9 (red)

To be clear, I have to cut the pins 14, 15 and 16 of the chip and after solder theses three wires to the board underneath.

Is any Arduino board compatible with your code or do I have to purchase a specific one ? Even the cheapest ? :D

Thanks again.
Regards.
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Wednesday, March 15, 2017 at 8:06 PM
@Unic Correct, you want your wires to connect to the board (and not the chip). Be sure to insulate the wires from the chip so they don't contact the Arduino circuit.

Any Arduino board marketed as an "Uno" should work (whether genuine or knockoff).
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Unic
Thursday, March 16, 2017 at 2:15 AM
Hi Nookkin,

I ordered an "UNO R3 ATmega328P Development Board With Boot Loader For Arduino UNO F7" for 3$.

I hope it will do the trick and I'll keep you update on my repair. :D

Thanks again.
Regards.
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Unic
Sunday, April 9, 2017 at 3:24 AM
Hi Nookkin,

Wiring job done.

I messed up de-soldering one leg of the chip (one pad broke), so I choose to solder the wires on the smd resistors.

Some pictures of my intervention.

http://reho.st/self/56b3f57409c57da960168f19a928428a1bcca59b.jpg
http://reho.st/self/e2347135991ceb06c4f70746f388c8e74aa6f01f.jpg

After taking this photographies, when bending the wire, one of of theses smd resistor unsticked of the board. The one corresponding to the pin #14 (PWN_B). No luck again.

So I decided to solder the blue wire to the pcb board point near marked as "PWNB". I placed a 1k resistor to this point (replacing like this the smd untiscked) and soldering the wire to this resistor. And it worked fine !

I think this could done to all. Solder a 1k resistor on each PCB points marked as "PWNR" ,"PWNG", "PWNB", and wire to the arduino board from theses resistors. It's an easier and safer way because the solder point are much bigger. ;)

The HP DreamColor LP2480zx colours are now fine. Thanks.

I was not able to use your program "Arduino Dreamcolor.exe". When I launch it. Windows tells me that is not a valid application. I surely miss a step.
Do I have to install another program before launching it ?

Thanks for your work, your dedication and your help, Nookkin. ;)

Regards.




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Shin
Wednesday, April 12, 2017 at 9:51 PM
The sensor appears to be as follows:

HDJD-S822-QR999
RGB Color Sensor
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Sunday, April 16, 2017 at 3:26 PM
@Unic Make sure you have the .NET Framework 4 installed. Which version of Windows are you using?
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Marian
Tuesday, April 18, 2017 at 5:10 AM
Hi i find datashit of sensor http://pdf.dzsc.com/HDJ/HDJD-S831-QT333.pdf
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Unic
Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 9:44 AM
Hi Nookin,

I running on Windows XP 32 bits and I have .Net Framework 4 Extended installed.

Regards,
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Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 2:33 PM
@Unic Did you try building it? I didn't actually intend to release the binary but it looks like there is one in the "obj" folder. It's possible that the binary is built for 64-bit Windows only (since it's not an actual released exe). I can build you a 32-bit one if you can't get the source code to build on your own.
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Unic
Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:22 PM
Hi Nookkin,

Sorry, but I do not know how to build a 32 bits release. :/
What software do I have to use ?

Regards.
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Gerard
Thursday, May 18, 2017 at 12:01 PM
I do not possess the skill or patience to tackle this. Let me know if you'd like to purchase another monitor.
I have one with the HP Dreamcolor Calibration System tool.
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Jarkko Lavinen
Thursday, May 18, 2017 at 2:06 PM
I have 6+ years old LP2480zx. I bought the original in 2008 which stopped working in 2011 and it was replaced by warranty.

I have a poor colour vision, but even I can see the white point has shifted towards purple. Backlight hours is about 13000. I haven't been able to complete the calibration reliably for many year and been to frustrated to even try most of the time. Nowadays the original v1 puck model calorimeter produces wrong calors because its filters have evidently faded. I am now ordering the v2 model which has sealed filters and hopefully longer life.

I would rather consider replacing the sensor chip than doing my own PWM. This requires removing the old sensor chip with soldering station with heat blower and replacing it with new one, perhaps baking it in soldering oven. Another option is to build a new sensor board. The sensor board has one sensor chip, one capacitor and one connector with 5 pins. Shouldn't be totally impossible and it wouldn't have to be pretty.

Yes, changing the sensor chip shifts factory calibration. One could compensate this by adding an adjustable gain voltage follower for each 3 channels. This would be basically be one quad op amp chip and additional parts. The gains would have to be adjusted to match the original sensor chip sensitivies at the time factory calibration. Mismatching sensitivities would show up as white point being in other position than desired.

Kynix at Hong Kong seems to sell HDJD-S822-QR999 sensors at single chip quantities for about USD 5 each, shipping costs USD 35.
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Thursday, May 18, 2017 at 9:36 PM
@Jarkko Lavinen Definitely, a successful sensor replacement would preserve more of the monitor's functionality and would avoid the flicker problem I had. If you end up succeeding in doing the sensor replacement, let me know how it turns out!

@Gerard If the price is right I'd consider attempting a different repair (the color chip replacement) on a second one.
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Jarkko Lavinen
Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 6:59 AM
I bought a used DreamColor mark 2 calibrator. Using that I was able to calibrate better than with my old puck but white point was still off from desired. I am surprised the HP/X-Rite calibration software now works when few years ago it failed no matter what I tried.

I used Dispcal from ArgyllCMS to check the white point after calibration and then compensate for the difference between desired and measured white and calculate new coordinates and re-calibrate. Fortunately the HP calibration software allows using custom white coordinates. I had to repeat the calibrate-compensate cycle many times. To get D65 at xy coordinates 313 329, I now use custom values 327 320.

So I don't have immediate need to replace the color sensor. I have nevertheless ordered few sensors from Kynix and I now have SMD rework station. Possibly the change of factory calibration of new sensor chip could be compensated with just using custom coordinates.
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Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 11:20 PM
@Jarkko Lavinen That calibrates it using the LCD. If you display a white background on the monitor and then open the OSD, you'll unfortunately notice that it is purple in comparison.
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Ben
Wednesday, August 16, 2017 at 11:01 PM
I'm curious to hear some of your updates. I'm waiting on my Arduino Uno to arrive. I am a complete newb when it comes to electronics, but I'm willing to learn and give it a try.

I just found out about a (now-discontinued) color sensor chip sold by Sparkfun ( https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10904 ) that uses the HDJD-S822-QR999 color sensor, and I wonder if could be used with the Uno (or as Jarkko mentioned earlier, to build a new sensor board) to approach this issue in a different way...
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Jarkko Lavinen
Friday, August 18, 2017 at 1:42 PM
I ordered 5 sensor chips. The chip is very small and it is difficult to see where the pin 1 is. Pins 14 and 15 are not connected and this can be seen in a macro shot. Pin 1 is on the left side the same way as in the data sheet.

I have a hot-air rework station but would need a lot of practice with scrap boards until attempting to replace the sensor.

Tried also to get Ookala calibration software (from Sourceforge) working but I does only work the original version of LP2480zx where all traffic went through DDC. Onlu simple commands work now over DDC but table reads and writes do not and crash the monitor. In the newer models there is a proprietary USB-i2c bridge. I have tried to sniff the traffic and but again can only do simple commands.
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Peter Mickelsen
Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 9:47 PM
I was able to adjust the backlight manually by cracking open the display and physically tapping on some minus green gel to the sensor ( 1 and 1/2 was pretty close) (Rosco 3308 and 3309).
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quiksilver
Tuesday, September 19, 2017 at 10:07 AM
Interested in more updates from you guys. Just got my hands on a lp2465 and lp2480zx and wondering what to do with them. The 2465 has a damaged panel (looks like dead pixels) and the 2480 has the color sensor issue with purple screen. I'd like to just replace the sensor to avoid the screen flicker but not sure how hard that would be and if a hot-air station is required.
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Wednesday, September 20, 2017 at 9:15 PM
@Peter Mickelsen That's really cool! Do you have a picture/video of how the monitor worked out in the end?

@quiksilver The sensor itself is on a breakout board as pictured. If you could build an equivalent board and mount the new sensor in its original hole, it should be doable without hot air. Unfortunately I don't know how well it would work if you can't set the factory calibration.
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Jimmy
Friday, September 22, 2017 at 1:14 AM
Sorry if I sounds stupid, is the color sensor part of LM240WU5 panel or something HP added later on? I'm trying to consider the possibility to replace the entire panel since I'm not electronic technician. It would be great if you can offer some insight to tech-noob.
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Friday, September 22, 2017 at 8:08 AM
@Jimmy it's part of the LG panel unfortunately, and that means that even HP didn't have a supported way to adjust the colors (the panel accepts absolute Yxy color coordinates and relies on the sensor to keep them accurate, even though a faulty sensor just makes the problem worse).
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Jimmy
Saturday, September 23, 2017 at 4:33 AM
@nookkin Does that mean if I just replace the panel everything should work fine? The panel itself isn't that expensive so it should be a doable solution for someone who is not tech savvy, like me :)
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Sunday, September 24, 2017 at 9:25 AM
@Jimmy Replacing the panel will only delay the inevitable problem and could even have it from the start if the sensor is old enough (not sure if it wears out due to age or amount of light it accepts). At the right price it's worth a shot but when I looked at replacement panels they were around $500 each.
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Ben
Saturday, September 30, 2017 at 4:35 PM
How easily did the rear cover of your monitors come off?

I'm following this guide: http://h22235.www2.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/Countries/_MultiCountry/disassembly_monito_20088216127.pdf

On my monitor, it feels as though the back cover is glued on. Is there a trick to removing the rear cover of the monitor?
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Saturday, September 30, 2017 at 7:57 PM
@Ben It was a bit of a challenge. Place the monitor face down, remove all screws on the back, then gently pop out the edges of the cover all around by prying between the gap. Once this is done, you should be able to lift the back cover right off -- alternatively, flip it over and pull the front bezel off (but it will then be difficult to flip the monitor over without damaging the LCD). Be careful with the cable connecting the front-panel buttons.

See the image below. Stick your pry tool (a putty knife or flat screwdriver works) under the "lip", pointy end towards the front of the monitor (i.e. downwards if the monitor is lying face down).

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Ben
Saturday, September 30, 2017 at 10:37 PM
After finally getting the LP2480zx open (with the help of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgErQwXrVSw), and eventually figuring out where the light sensor was hidden (and boy is it small!), I ended up doing the "Peter M Method" by using one of the Rosco Minus Green gels. I ended up just taping on a little tiny piece of the gel using regular clear packing tape (don't know enough about electronics to know if this is a terrible idea or not).

Plugged the monitor in to test and it works!

Now I just have to summon the patience to put the monitor back together.

For anyone wondering where to get the gels, I ended up purchasing the "Rosco Cinegel Swatchbook" from B&H, and it had more than enough samples to potentially work with.

Thanks to nookkin and everyone else for all the help! Hopefully this monitor will last me a year or two more!
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Jimmy
Friday, October 13, 2017 at 2:01 AM
@nookkin I brought the panel on a Chinese site. It took about a week to ship it from China to US. The panel is surprisingly cheap( about$120), but the shipping cost is relatively high($70). I spent three hours to disassemble and put the monitor back, but the result is worth it. Though, the panel has one dead pixel that's only able to show green and white colors. The color looks perfect, sad 3rd gen dreamcolor is total garbage comparing to 2nd gen.

I spent total $300 on this monitor in case you need the reference.
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Nuw
Tuesday, November 7, 2017 at 11:07 PM
I recently acquired two of these failed LP2480ZXes, but where exactly is the color sensor located within the monitor and panel? I aim to perform the gel filter mod mentioned in Ben and Peter M's comments and just want to save a bit of time before I take the time and effort to tear these apart.
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Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 7:15 PM
@Nuw It's on the back of the LG panel which unfortunately requires almost complete disassembly of the monitor to get at.



You'll need to remove a metal cover. The sensor is under the white thing with the wires coming out.

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Ben
Wednesday, November 15, 2017 at 9:52 PM
Ok, so it's been about a month since I've "fixed" the monitor with the color gel hack, and while it's not perfect (there is still a slight hue), the monitor is much more bearable.

At first, I thought taking apart the monitor and performing this particular fix would be simple, but this monitor is one of the most complicated monitor's I've come across (taking it apart, the amount of hardware involved, working with the sensor itself, and putting it back together). At first I thought if this hacked worked well it would be worth getting a few more monitors as backups. Unfortunately, while this monitor is still one of the best monitors i've ever worked with, the price of newer 4k AdobeRGB monitors is coming down, so I don't think it is as economical of an option as I first thought it would be.

In any case, I'm looking forward to potential updates on other users' solutions!
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Nuw
Friday, November 17, 2017 at 11:01 AM
It took me only about an hour per monitor that I had to get it apart. One can expedite the process heavily:
- Remove back and the metal shield screws per usual
- Don't bother removing the mainboard nor the power supply, nor any cables except the one leading to the panel itself in the center of the mainboard and the shielded cable on the left (and disconnect this at the panel side, not the mainboard)
- Remove the USB hub only to get to the ribbon cable for the buttons

The color filter mod was actually rather successful, but I noticed that the white point would need shifting or the display would end up cycling between red and blue in one case. Further, brightness controls were essentially nonexistent. Removing a bit of filter fixed that for me.

My other LP2480ZX also benefited from this mod but still has a haze; I plan to address that with more filter this weekend.

I'm also curious as to how to get internal calibration to work without HP's scarce and questionable i1d2-based calibration solution.
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user91820
Monday, January 15, 2018 at 11:50 PM
I did Unic's method as seen in the photos he shared. Broke the three pins and then soldered on the "smd resistors". The monitor powers up and OSD buttons light up but no screen or menu - blank and black.

Any ideas? Was I suppose to remove the sensor?
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user91820
Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 12:18 AM
Update: I installed the Arduino software and uploaded the script, plugged it in and the monitor turns on now. Looks great right out of the gate - EXCEPT it's flickering quite significantly .

How do I reduce the flicker?

How to I activate the windows RED GREEN BLUE menu?
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user91820
Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 10:15 AM
Update 2: In the Arduino script I found the right values to achieve a white balance, the flickering is gone.

Ran displaycal successfully and the contrast and saturation looks great.

The problem I am facing right now is that it has become apparent that the white balance is very inconsistent across the screen. Green bands and red leaking. Most notably on the upper half and on the left side, facing the monitor.

Is this the panel failing or another component potentially? Can it be replaced affordably? Is this the end of the road? :(
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Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 10:56 AM
@user91820 The Arduino fully controls the backlight so it needs to be plugged in and holding the output pins at some PWM value.

It will flicker like crazy at lower brightness due to the Arduino's low PWM frequency. I have to keep mine pretty close to full brightness to make it go away.

If you want to use the Windows menu, download the Arduino DreamColor Fix zip file. I added the compiled EXE so you don't have to compile from source.

Do you have a picture of the inconsistent white balance? It's possible that someone calibrated it as far as it could go with the purple -- I would test white balance settings using the "Monitor Going to Sleep" error which is "immune" to the DreamColor calibration. Unfortunately it's probably cheaper to buy a replacement "purple" screen on eBay than to repair the current one.
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user91820
Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 1:39 PM
Hey thanks for the quick reply and adding the compiled program!

I’m not at home right now, I will send a picture later today! How do you test with the monitor error? Right now the monitor is set to factory settings. I have both the new and old HP calibrator units and I ran them for calibration with the HP DreamColor Solution software before your Arduino mod. Both calibration units failed, the old school puck made everything red and the new dp1 or w/e it’s called made everything slightly green and the brightness dim. Using your Arduino I basically had to boost the greens a lot and boost the reds and blues a bit too. I can send a screen shot of the white balance measurement on display cal later today too.

Would this purple panel still potentially resolve the white balance inconsistentcy and at what price would one anticipate paying?@nookkin
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Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 5:38 PM
@user91820 The various menus/errors on the monitor are not subject to the calibration. You can briefly see the "Monitor going to sleep" error if you have no inputs selected. Alternatively you can set OSD transparency to 0 and use the white/gray OSD colors while displaying a white or neutral gray signal.

Another possibility might be to bypass the DreamColor Engine by feeding the monitor an interlaced or YCbCr signal -- either do this digitally in your graphics card's control panel or use the Composite input with only the green (Y) plug connected. You'll know when you receive a "Color Gamut Remapping Disabled" message. See if there is a noticeable change in white balance with constant backlight settings via Arduino.

Can you try calibration with all PWM channels on the Arduino set to 250 (maximum range my Windows app supports)?
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user91820
Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:02 AM
@nookkin
I'm confused as to what you want me to do with the OSD menu with transparency set to 0. You want me to put the calibration unit on that and get a white balance measurement?

I was able to bypass the DreamColor Engine by setting the graphics card's control to YCbCr at which point I saw the message "Color Gamut Remapping Disabled". I also set this in Arduino and uploaded it"//Load default values (Experimentally obtained for my own
//monitor, yours will likely be different)
red=250;
green=250;
blue=250;"

Is that what you wanted? I then ran the calibration and I think the white balance is a bit more consistent now. However, I can still see that the upper 1/4 of the screen is ever so slightly red and the bottom 3/4's is ever so slightly green. At a second glance it almost looks more like the bottom 3/4s is just too green and the upper 1/4 is probably about right.
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user91820
Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 1:15 AM
PS: The flickering is very sensitive when changing the green channel. Even dropped down to 240 and flickering is significant. Reducing the green channel in Arduino to 200 (for example) seems to really improve the white balance of the monitor tho? What is going on here? What is the relationship between the flickering, the green channel being lowered and this improving the white balance of the screen?
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user91820
Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 6:02 PM
Hey man! Thank you for what you have done here, I'm moved on past the slight white balance inconsistency.

Wondering if you know why when using HDMI as the input I no longer have color space options (ex. REC709). It is locked to "full". Ideas? Hoping to use REC709 in Davinci Resolve!

Cheers,
Erik
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Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 8:51 PM
@user91820 The DreamColor Engine only works with a progressive RGB input. Change your settings back to RGB in the graphics card's control panel and you'll get it back.
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user91820
Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 10:53 PM
@nookkin Hey! Thx for tip, turned out it was because I didn’t have 444-SDI box checked in resolve. Outputting to LP2480zx via HDMI and Blackmagic mini monitor 4K.

Your expertise saved this screen, allowed me to get off the phone with HP and avoid settling for a 6bit panel from Viewsonic! Thank you for your efforts, god bless you man!
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Nikolai
Saturday, February 17, 2018 at 5:50 PM
@Jimmy Hi!
you receive a new panel with the stuck pixel or was a refurbished one? The LCD panel has the color sensor?
A friend give me this monitor for free because of the purple issue. He said he can not fix it. I want to give a second chance to this excellent monitor but I do not have any electronics or soldering skills to make this mod with arduino. I think is a better option for me just to replace the LCD panel if that fixes the issue. Can you tell me what happened in your case?

Regars
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Nuw
Friday, March 16, 2018 at 8:24 PM
Four months later, I've "re-fixed" one of my three LP2480zxes with an Arduino (Sparkfun's Pro Micro-based) directly controlling the backlight.
Earlier, I had used the gel filter mod described in the comments, but this particular monitor (with 38,000 hours!) never seemed to do anything but color-shift until giving up, even after sanding down the color sensor in an attempt to get more light into it.
I'll look into ways to increase the PWM frequency from here to above 610Hz (according to datasheet, the HDJD-J822's PWM output runs at that freq. in a "typical" setup), as well as perhaps making a better program with user-controllable color temperatures/brightness presets that might also work on Linux and Mac OS.
I might probably just end up making manual hardware controls so I don't really have to deal with programs in the first place. I much prefer manual control.
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Jimmy
Saturday, March 17, 2018 at 2:06 AM
@Nikolai It's new except the stuck pixel, which only show up if the background is black. The color sensor actually comes with the panel originally. The panel is designed and manufactured by LG but it seems like 2480zx is the only commercial product that uses this panel. The panel comes with its own circuit board, so just disconnect the cable connecting to monitor's control board and replace the panel afterwards. It's pretty simple, took me about a hour and half to disassemble and put it back. The plastic frame is the most difficult part, the rest is just unscrewing the panel, also make sure not to break anything.

I brought it from here, just in case if you want to know.
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180316230328&SearchText=LM240WU5-SLA1
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Unic
Wednesday, April 4, 2018 at 4:16 AM
Hi nookkin,

For the flickering, maybe a hardware trick can be done like this one :
https://geektimes.ru/post/258098/

I'm using the HP DreamColor as a third screen dedicate to movies. After the Arduino mod, the impossibility to adjust the brightness is my main issue. I wonder if a hardware ajustement like this one can be done to adjust the backlight intensity ?

Regards,
Unic
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Wednesday, April 4, 2018 at 10:27 PM
@Unic The hardware trick is to tweak the output current of the LED driver. I did not find such a chip but that's not to say it's impossible.

Keep in mind it's a full-array LED backlight, not just a strip or two at the edges. There are multiple groups of LEDs driven independently by their own set of driving circuitry. You would likely need to replace multiple resistors with identical ones or you'll end up with uniformity issues.

Here's a photo of the driver board in case you're curious: http://data.nookkin.com/backlight_driver.jpg
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Unic
Thursday, April 5, 2018 at 10:43 AM
Hi nookkin,

If I interpreted the picture correctly, the mod can be done very easily.
Adding a same value resistor to each "+" cables that comes from that board to the backlight panel.

The issue is just to know how much intensity (mA) every led liaison has, that way I can calculate the resistor needed. For the voltage, that no problem.

Maybe I'll give a try.

Regards.
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Unic
Thursday, April 5, 2018 at 11:19 AM
Humm, that was too simple... :/
I measured the voltages :

Beetween G8+ et G8-, that's 13,55v
Beetween R8+ et R8-, that's 8,55v
Beetween B8+ et V8-, that's 128,5v (no mistake : 128v !)
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Friday, April 6, 2018 at 12:08 AM
@Unic The article you linked to describes using a small variable resistor to control the output voltage of the driver IC (using the "compensation" input pin which is meant for voltage adjustment). This replaced a fixed-value resistor installed at the factory.

If you connect a resistor in line with the + pin, you'll need a much bigger (high wattage) resistor since it will consume some of the current meant for the LED and convert it into heat. If you use something that can't handle the current, it might catch on fire!

128V does seem pretty high but CCFL backlights can get into the thousands of volts so it's not too surprising...
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Pawel
Friday, June 15, 2018 at 1:56 AM
I like using external circuit to control backlight as it is very 'hacky' solution and can be used as last resort option. I would however use FPGA instead if I had to. Thankfully my two LP2480zx can be calibrated using HP calibrator just fine. I have 13020 hours on mine I am using now and 4561 hours since last calibration and white is still perfectly white.
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Pawel
Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 2:51 PM
Bought another LP2480zx and it had 4328 hours and 4328 hours since last calibration... Monitor came with HP DreamColor Calibration kit and was basically sold as broken with link to this page on auction as possible solution to pinkish panel color. It of course calibrated perfectly to D65 using included calibrator. Like really... such a surprise... XD

Conclusion: buy HP calibrators and not use Arduino or whatever to fix your monitors
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Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 7:22 PM
@Pawel Mine has 32,468 hours. 4,000-ish is practically brand new. As long as the backlight is able to produce sufficient levels of green, you'll be able to calibrate (via DreamColor Engine that only manipulates the LCD panel) successfully but calibration will fail once the backlight doesn't produce sufficient green light. Does it look white compared to a known-good monitor?

Do you have a link to the original listing?
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Matthew Macar
Friday, August 24, 2018 at 3:19 PM
I have no experience with Arduino but I do have experience with inline PWM dimmers with custom LED units Ive made. Would it be possible simply to install inline PWMDs for each channel and using a calibrator, dial it in this way?
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Jason Kohnke
Friday, August 24, 2018 at 10:10 PM
Hey guys,

I purchased 2 2480ZX's and am curious about a few things that I hope someone can help me out with:

1) Can you identify actual # of hours?
2) Last Calibration shows 2272 hours....Is that decent?
3) I have connected to a IMAC 2017 and am only able to access "Full" (Similar in Nature to Erik's question above) Any thoughts?
4) Screen looks pretty good but the clarity and sharpness of text from the Mac Finder menu for example, is not great. But the text from the 2480 Menu looks crisp as can be. Any Thoughts?
5) Last but not least...Anyone willing to rent/sell/borrow the calibrator? I will take care of it like my own child.

Thanks everyone for the posts...Nookin, U R A BEAST!!!!
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Friday, August 24, 2018 at 10:11 PM
@Matthew Macar You should be able to do this by connecting directly to the PWM pins as described in the article and/or comments. Same downsides of the Arduino mod would apply but the PWM dimmer could be better at avoiding flicker. If you try it, please share the results!

I don't think it will work to connect to the color sensor though, since it outputs analog and not PWM.
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Friday, August 24, 2018 at 10:18 PM
@Jason Kohnke 1) Under OSD Information you can see both the last calibration and total backlight hours

2) Last Calibration doesn't matter as much as total backlight hours as far as the purple issue is concerned. 2,272 hours is quite young for total; mine is at 32,696. That being said, it's possible someone cleared the memory.

3) If you're stuck on "Full" it means the DreamColor Engine is disabled -- and it does that when it's fed anything other than a progressive RGB signal. (So YCbCr and Interlaced will both do this.) What input are you using? I'm not super familiar with Macs but you should be able to find a setting to put it into RGB mode or "monitor" (as opposed to "television") mode?

4) See #3, it's the same root cause. It thinks it's getting a "TV" signal and tries over-sharpening it to compensate.

5) Unfortunately I don't have one. Even if you do find one, the filters in them wear out within a few years so results are not guaranteed.
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Jarkko Lavinen
Sunday, August 26, 2018 at 4:37 PM
Is there a way to access the sensor board without removing the main board? Or how do I remove the backlight board? It has 3 screws. One of them is behind the USB PCB pedestal.

Detaching the LCD signal cable from the main board seems impossible without damaging the cable at the same time. I was able to remove the back panel relatively easily but not that cable.
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Sunday, August 26, 2018 at 4:47 PM
@Jarkko Lavinen You need to remove the entire panel unfortunately.See this comment for pictures.
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Jarkko Lavinen
Sunday, August 26, 2018 at 5:37 PM
@nookkin: Thanks!

The signal cable is sitting extremely tight as if it were glued. I have tried 3 different pliers in vain and with high risk of damaging the cable. I would need some small wedge to force it to separate.
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ercpck
Saturday, April 20, 2019 at 4:33 AM
There is a much simpler solution to the pink color of the DreamColor than using an Arduino....

If you were to look at the color sensor, the one that you removed from the monitor... the one that causes the problems with the monitor.... you could fix the sensor in like five seconds.

The reason the sensor goes bad is because the HP guys put some sort of epoxy on top of the actual sensor.... the epoxy goes green over time, and the sensor compensates by making the monitor magenta (as the sensor is essentially seeing everything green).

The solution is to grab an x-acto knife and remove the green epoxy from the top of the sensor... it will crack and peel off. Do it carefully so that the sensor is not damaged.

Put the sensor back inside, and be happy, the sensor will never fail again. I have a dreamcolor with more than 40,000 hours, looking great.

Hopefully this solution doesn't come too late to the party. I reckon, I should have commented ages ago.
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Humberto
Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 2:05 AM
@ercpck Hi ercpck, Sounds very clever and logical solution ... I´ll try and update this post in a few days... Thanks a lot!
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Nikolai
Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 8:00 PM
@ercpck @Humberto Hello, I actually try this mod. I removed the "green epoxy" from the sensor surface. The little square pop ups very easy but be careful in this step, a bad move with the X-acto and the sensor will broken.

This mod only works fine in the DCI-P3 Emulation. good color and white point. Not perfect for color critic work. Very usable for normal use.

All other color spaces or modes shows the pink tone. A reset to defaults settings do not fix the pink issue. I Will take some pictures to share with you so you can compare pink tone in each color mode. By the way was a very interesting approach to fix the problem. Thanks you for share with us. Post your results with some pictures.

Best regards
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Humberto
Friday, April 26, 2019 at 10:27 PM
@ercpck Hi ercpck, Sounds very clever and logical solution ... I´ll try and update this post in a few days... Thanks a lot! @ercpck @nookkin[/reply] @Nikolai[/replay] First to all Thank you very much to Lyosha Blinnikov who started this post , researching , experimenting and sharing with all of us. Now ... thank you so much to @ercpck... I did the very scary process to "remove the green epoxy from the top of the sensor"... and works great!. I have to add that I cleaned the sensor after remove the epoxy with a little cotton stick (dry) . Thank you !, Thank you!, Thank You!! I have a couple pictures but I don´t know how upload the pictures here. BTW @Nikolai, all the Color Space options works great (Not pink tone)... did you tray to clean very well the sensor before reinstaled? .

Regards!!
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Jason Kohnke
Saturday, April 27, 2019 at 10:52 AM
Hey all, I purchased 2 of these in an auction with very low hours. I have no calibration tool however. In the groups opinion, how does this monitor stack up in quality to current monitors in the same specs?
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Humberto
Monday, April 29, 2019 at 2:49 PM
@ercpck Hi ercpck, Sounds very clever and logical solution ... I´ll try and update this post in a few days... Thanks a lot! @ercpck @nookkin[/reply] @Nikolai[/replay] First to all Thank you very much to Lyosha Blinnikov who started this post , researching , experimenting and sharing with all of us. Now ... thank you so much to @ercpck... I did the very scary process to "remove the green epoxy from the top of the sensor"... and works great!. I have to add that I cleaned the sensor after remove the epoxy with a little cotton stick (dry) . Thank you !, Thank you!, Thank You!! I have a couple pictures but I don´t know how upload the pictures here. BTW @Nikolai, all the Color Space options works great (Not pink tone)... did you tray to clean very well the sensor before reinstaled? .

Regards!!
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asdf
Tuesday, May 7, 2019 at 5:55 PM
People who have removed the green epoxy, did it fix all colour modes or just DCI-P3 emulation?
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asdf
Saturday, May 11, 2019 at 6:25 PM
I'm having trouble cutting the stained light blue prism out - its definitely not popping out easily! Are you guys cutting it horizontally? Parts of the corner and cracking off, but it is leaving harsh white scratched plastic behind which means the sensor won't be able to see the actual colour correctly.

As for a replacement color sensor, there isn't anything to calibrate - it has 5 pins:
- 5v DC power
- ground
- voltage for Red
- voltage for Green
- voltage for Blue

Someone posted the datasheet for the sensor part:
http://pdf.dzsc.com/HDJ/HDJD-S831-QT333.pdf

But I can't find any places that sell it as it is considered an obsolete part.
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Humberto
Monday, May 13, 2019 at 3:39 AM
@ercpck Hi ercpck, Sounds very clever and logical solution ... I´ll try and update this post in a few days... Thanks a lot! @ercpck @nookkin[/reply] @Nikolai[/replay] First to all Thank you very much to Lyosha Blinnikov who started this post , researching , experimenting and sharing with all of us. Now ... thank you so much to @ercpck... I did the very scary process to "remove the green epoxy from the top of the sensor"... and works great!. I have to add that I cleaned the sensor after remove the epoxy with a little cotton stick (dry) . Thank you !, Thank you!, Thank You!! I have a couple pictures but I don´t know how upload the pictures here. BTW @Nikolai, all the Color Space options works great (Not pink tone)... did you tray to clean very well the sensor before reinstaled? .

Regards!!
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asdf
Tuesday, May 14, 2019 at 5:06 PM
Ok I managed to remove the blue block and it has fixed it for all colour spaces.
It pops off easily, but you need to cut the base quite a bit before it literally pops off

https://i.imgur.com/3hR8UFD.jpg
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Macbrody
Monday, May 27, 2019 at 12:00 PM
Hi,

Just can say a big thanks to all of you.

I was not ready to go with Arduino fix, but the simple one that remove the epoxy on the sensor is quite simple (after the whole disassembly).

My 8K hours screen is now back on track with some pretty good colors.

Thanks again
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Jarkko Lavinen
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 at 7:05 AM
The datasheets HDJD-S831-QT333.pdf for the sensor module depicts a filter on top of the sensor chip and the part number coding also refer to an IR filter. The red sensitivity peaks near 600nm with about 35% respone relative to green peak and response is down at 650nm.

The bare sensor chip HDJD-S822-QR999.pdf has different red. There is no IR filter and red shoots up at 600nm and stays up till 750nm and the sensitivity peaks 25% higher than green beyond 700nm. Also blue and green sensitivities start to rise towards infrared.

I assume the IR filter is needed because of the sensor picks heat from the LEDs otherwise. The IR filter is presumably blue-green. I wonder if this the green epoxy?
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Yasser Kassem
Monday, August 5, 2019 at 12:32 PM
Hello everyone,

Thank you all for your contribution and brilliant efforts, i made the fix as advised by @ercpck and worked like sharm, but i lost the control or the brightness setting, the display is full bright and not reducing, i'm using HDMI at the moment and waiting my display cable to come, any idea what may cause this issue?

best regards
Yasser
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Tuesday, August 6, 2019 at 11:07 PM
@Yasser Kassem You removed the epoxy from the sensor and did NOT bypass the Avago chip, right? I'd first double check to make sure you didn't accidentally loosen the sensor's wires or damage the sensor itself.

What happens when you adjust the white balance? Does it ever "dip" to black?
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Yasser Kassem
Wednesday, August 7, 2019 at 3:58 AM
@nookkin,

thank you for the reply, yes i removed the epoxy method, the white balance seem not working as well!

the color accuracy is very well compared to my mac retina display, changing color space seem works, adjusting brightness or WB setting do nothing, I also downloaded the HP software and try to adjust the setting for brightness but no luck.

I double check all the wires again yesterday and nothing is loos or broken, in case of sensor damage, is it replaceable? if not, is the maximum harm is the brightness issue i'm facing or more things i didn't see yet?

appreciate your support.

best regards
Yasser
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Yasser Kassem
Friday, August 9, 2019 at 4:31 AM
@nookkin,

thank you for the reply, yes i removed the epoxy method, the white balance seem not working as well!

the color accuracy is very well compared to my mac retina display, changing color space seem works, adjusting brightness or WB setting do nothing, I also downloaded the HP software and try to adjust the setting for brightness but no luck.

I double check all the wires again yesterday and nothing is loos or broken, in case of sensor damage, is it replaceable? if not, is the maximum harm is the brightness issue i'm facing or more things i didn't see yet?

appreciate your support.

best regards
Yasser
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Dennis
Wednesday, September 25, 2019 at 9:32 PM
Guys, so much unnecessary work done, so many discussions and attempts. But to eliminate the purple color, only need install two adjustable resistors and tune white color. Nothing else.
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Merih Oztaylan
Friday, September 27, 2019 at 11:39 AM
@Dennis
How do you do that. Can you please explain?
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Dennis
Friday, September 27, 2019 at 2:25 PM
Need to solder in parallel to the capacitor C14 a trimming resistor with value of 200k and parallel to C13 with value of 500k (usually enough 80-150k for green color(C14) and 300-400k for red color(C13). I use 3362W type trimming resistors. Don't solder they on long wires, need so close, as possible. After mounting set the resistor 500K to the maximum value, 200K to the average point. Turn on the monitor and set the brightness to wish lighting (but over 80cd/m2). Go to the color temperature adjustment menu and do changing 6400k<-> 6500k with rotate 200k resistor(green color) to adjusting the color close to white(of course wait few second for auto adjusting every time after changed white point). If necessary, adjust to the perfect with a resistor of 500k(red color). Done. All functions will works as usually. If necessary, white point can be adjusted at any time manually or with an external calibrator. I find these monitors unique with about perfect black color. In modern models, this is almost impossible to find, and I will be glad if many guys, with my help, can restore their LP2480ZX and be happy.
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Dennis
Friday, September 27, 2019 at 2:37 PM
P.S. For those who want to use an external PWM control, instead of the HDJD-J822 for a refresh rate of 60 Hz, it is necessary to set the PWM frequency strictly to 720 Hz. Otherwise, you will observe a stroboscopic effect.
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Friday, October 4, 2019 at 5:37 AM
@Dennis
Thank you Dennis,

I will try your fix ASAP.
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Oyvind
Thursday, May 21, 2020 at 7:03 AM
Hi,
You're the only person I've found on the net who has demonstrated deep understanding og HP Dreamcolor panels.
I have an HP Elitebook 8560w with a Dreacolor LG LCD panel (LP156WF3 SL B3) that one day suddenly went black.
The computer itself runs just fine on an external screen, and the GPU (NVIDIA Quadro 2000M) is reported "running OK" by Windows 10.
Then one day, the internal LCD panel suddenly lit up again, and everything seemed normal. But when the PC entered sleep mode and turned it off, it never came back on again. I suspect that the backlighting doesn't ignite as it should.
I have inspected all cables and connectors. The GPU board seems to run as it gets hot (as it should).
Do you have any advice?
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Michael Chmilar
Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 5:40 PM
I just tried the epoxy scraping method on my lp2480zx (which had been getting dimmer and more magenta/purple over the last few years).

The epoxy was definitely very greenish. I was also a little surprised at how thick the epoxy block was.

The result is a clear portal for the sensor, but with some scratches on the surface.

After reassembly, I have a very blue screen. It is not completely blue, I can see some green. No red.

I can think it is either a new malfunction of the sensor after the scraping (the white rubber surrounding the sensor got chewed up a bit by the xacto knife, too), or (most likely) I messed something up when disconnecting or reconnecting an internal cable, or some cable that was not disconnected got tugged too hard.

If anyone has a suggestion about where to focus my attention to get the monitor back to running, let me know. I would appreciate it.
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Michael Chmilar
Wednesday, June 3, 2020 at 12:25 PM
Updating my previous comment:

I've unplugged the sensor completely. The monitor turns on with the "Scanning Inputs" patch a nice white. Then it starts drifting in color into the yellows and greens. Presumably, the system is modulating the colors and trying to find a reading from the sensor.

Looking more closely at the sensor, where I scraped down the big epoxy cube, the surface is a bit hazy. I'm not sure if that is still residue from the epoxy, or how to effectively clean it so it becomes clear.

But, it seems that the haziness over the sensor is causing the system to adjust the color to almost entirely blue.
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Pawel Kaluszynski
Thursday, June 4, 2020 at 12:45 AM
I have 11044 hours since last calibration on Rec.709 profile which I use daily and 19503 hours total on my LP2480zx and there is zero change in colors. When I got this monitor (slightly more than 11k hours of use ago) it was very purple. To me it seems this epoxy thing or whatever causes the issue gets green but only up to the point, at least on my display. I have two other LP2480zx but currently I am using only one of them, will use another one when this one breaks down or I get desk where I could put it.

So I am wondering: Do you guys even calibrate your displays? I mean hardware calibration with official HP DreamColor calibration solution.
I have both supported probes, one older based on i1 Display 2 and newer i1 Display Pro and both do similar job, though the newer sensor seems to be more accurate.
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Michael Chmilar
Friday, June 5, 2020 at 11:26 AM
When I put the sensor back into position, I am getting a very green backlight.

As an experiment, I took a Philips Hue light and aimed the sensor at it. If I change the Hue light's color, and move the sensor to different distances, the controller will modulate the backlight color, but it always seems to settle on blue or green. If I get the backlight to white, it never stays there.

It seems that the sensor is quite finicky.

I may end up trying one of the interventions that bypasses the sensor completely. I am not skilled at soldering, and especially not in the tight spaces of the PCB.

It would be nice to see some photos of Dennis' method.
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Michael Chmilar
Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 1:56 PM
After watching some videos about trimming resistors, it sounds like the idea is to connect pins 1 and 2 (wiper) to the PCB.

When Dennis says "parallel" to the capacitors, does this mean as a sort of "bridge" over top of the capacitor, with one pin soldered to one side of the capacitor, and the the other pin soldered to the opposite side of the capacitor. Can this be done on the "top" side of the PCB? Or does it need to be the underside (requiring complete removal of the PCB for access to the underside)? Also, does direction of the resistor matter?
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Dennis
Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 3:11 PM
"One pin soldered to one side of the capacitor, and the the other pin soldered to the opposite side of the capacitor" - correct. "Also, does direction of the resistor matter?" - for passive component not matter.
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Michael Chmilar
Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 6:11 PM
Thank you for the response, Dennis.

I will order some trimming resistors soon, and give it a try.
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Dennis
Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 8:24 PM
But firstly I recommend put HDJD-S822-QR999 sensor in to white light and measure voltages level on driver board after input filter (on C13(Red), C14(Green) and C15(Blue) for understanding what wrong with sensor after surface "cleaning". And how(and is it possible) to compensate sensor unbalance.
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Michael Chmilar
Saturday, June 13, 2020 at 1:39 PM
Alright, I dug out my multi-meter, and have these readings (with a flashlight aimed directly at the sensor):

C15 27 mV

C14 0.9 V

C13 0.7 V

Given that C15 (Blue) measures at a very low value, and the screen is adjusting to blue, it seems likely that the sensor is not delivering a correct blue value, or maybe no blue value at all.
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Jon Waters
Monday, June 15, 2020 at 10:51 PM
I tried the remove the epoxy method first, it definitely improved the red cast but it's gone slightly blue. Tried the fix Dennis has suggested next but I just get a straight RED screen (whites are red) If I disconnect the red on C13 the green works (the pot will have an effect on the amount of green) but the overall look is too green. I'm checking over everything Dennis has said to try to see where I have gone wrong.
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Malachi Cull
Tuesday, June 16, 2020 at 12:35 PM
Hi everyone. Nookin, this is an amazing article. Are there any videos on this process? If not, I wouldn't mind making one if someone can walk me through the process on the phone or in a Zoom meeting or something. I'm really scared of messing things up. I am a complete beginner at using Arduinos, and frankly I have my mind split in so many things I havent been able to find time to fix this monitor. It's been years now. I'd like to try again. My email is malachicull@gmail.com I could very much use the help and I'd like to film my process to help others fix their problem a bit easier. Thank you!
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Jon Waters
Tuesday, June 16, 2020 at 10:18 PM
After a bit of messing around with Dennis’s fix I’ve come to the conclusion that the variable resistance need to be a bit higher in resistance than specified by Dennis, at least for my one anyway. I’m thinking they need to be more like 2meg for the red and maybe 500 K for the green. Basically resistance across that capacitor in both cases increases the amount of that colour so the more resistance the lighter of the colour, less resistance the stronger colour. 500k on the red capacitor gets me solid red with no change adjusting at all so I’m going to get a hand full of different values and try each one. 200k on the green (c14) I get green with some adjustment but still too strong on green. Report back when I’ve done more testing. Thanks to all for the input into this.
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Dennis
Tuesday, June 16, 2020 at 11:09 PM
Guys. There are two ways to fix the color on the LP2480zx.
1. Compensate for the non-linear sensitivity of the HDJD-S822-QR999 sensor acquired over time.
2. Completely disable the native color/brightness control on the HDJD-J822 (14,15,16 pins) and use the external triple PWM at exactly 720 Hz.
In the case of magenta color, the sensor has an acquired loss of sensitivity in red/blue colors.
Accordingly, the HDJD-J822 controller thinks that there is a lot of green at the backlight and reduces its level.
Therefore, to compensate not enough of green, you need to reduce red/blue level at sensor output. As an option - installing resistors in parallel with C13, C14.
But if you damaged the sensor during the manipulations with cleaning its surface, the option remains to completely replace the color management system.
I did that option with acceptable result for `5$ costs with from two boards from Aliexpress(triple PWM and USB to COM) with the ability to adjust the brightness through the USB(simple several BAT-files with RGB levels presets).
If someone wanna details, how to made it, I can provide.
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Jon Waters
Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 4:42 PM
After a bit of messing around with Dennis’s fix I’ve come to the conclusion that the variable resistance need to be a bit higher in resistance than specified by Dennis, at least for my one anyway. I’m thinking they need to be more like 2meg for the red and maybe 500 K for the green. Basically resistance across that capacitor in both cases increases the amount of that colour so the more resistance the lighter of the colour, less resistance the stronger colour. 500k on the red capacitor gets me solid red with no change adjusting at all so I’m going to get a hand full of different values and try each one. 200k on the green (c14) I get green with some adjustment but still too strong on green. Report back when I’ve done more testing. Thanks to all for the input into this.
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Jon Waters
Sunday, June 21, 2020 at 10:40 PM
After a bit of messing around with Dennis’s fix I’ve come to the conclusion that the variable resistance need to be a bit higher in resistance than specified by Dennis, at least for my one anyway. I’m thinking they need to be more like 2meg for the red and maybe 500 K for the green. Basically resistance across that capacitor in both cases increases the amount of that colour so the more resistance the lighter of the colour, less resistance the stronger colour. 500k on the red capacitor gets me solid red with no change adjusting at all so I’m going to get a hand full of different values and try each one. 200k on the green (c14) I get green with some adjustment but still too strong on green. Report back when I’ve done more testing. Thanks to all for the input into this.
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Oyvind Overby
Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 3:34 AM
Dear folks,

After my initial post here, dated Thursday, May 21, 2020 at 7:03 AM, I have taken a drastic step further, please help;
Dear Sir/Madam,

I have an HP EliteBook 8560w equipped with the DreamColor LCD display from LG, Model No.: LP156WF3-(SL)(B3)
The PC has the NVIDIA Quadro 2000M GPU.

After updating the NVIDIA driver to Version 10.18.13.5362 (dated 22.07.2015), the LCD panel failed and died during normal Windows 10 reboot. The PC itself works as normal on an external screen, and no errors are reported by the NVIDIA driver.

The problem did not occur immediately after the driver was updated, and I am uncertain if this is related to the driver Upgrade, or not. However, I decided to replace the LCD and bought a new panel.

The new panel worked just fine at first, but after 4 hours of normal operations, it too failed and died during a normal PC reboot, just like the first panel.

So now I have two dead LCD panels, and I do not understand what went wrong, and what I should do.

I suspect that for some reason, the electronic GPU card or the inverter or some other electronic power circuitry in the PC itself is generating a power spike during off/on switching of the panel, causing some component in the panel to fail and break its power circuit/feed.

My question is;

1. Have anyone experienced similar issues with same type LCD panels from LG ?
2. Do you know of any possibility to fix this issue (I cannot afford to put in yet another panel and just break it too)

Many thanks in advance.
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Joshua
Friday, August 14, 2020 at 6:21 PM
@Dennis Dennis,

I would like the details on how you made your PWM fix. Thank you.
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Oyvind
Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 2:34 AM
Hi all,
Does anyone know where to finda schematic diagram of the LP156WF3-(SL)(B3 dreamcolor panel?

Many Thanks in advance.
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Dennis
Saturday, August 15, 2020 at 12:57 PM
Hello guys!
@Oyvind Overby Usually, if you see some trouble with cooler fan, keyboard, LCD backlight, or long post/not always boot-up(and many other bugs) on Intel platform notebooks -> clear ME region in bios(or write dump with cleared ME). Only after that look for another reason. Datasheet for LP156WF3-SLB1 panel is here https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/941720/LG/LP156WF3-SLB1/1

@Joshua Triple pwm module like a https://aliexpress.ru/item/32973769074.html?spm=a2g0v.12010615.8148356.3.7f19148aMS6r7O
USB to COM converter like a https://aliexpress.ru/w/wholesale-ch340-usb-module-for-ttl-ch340g.html

Power from Hp USB hub(close to driver board - profit). RX/TX/GND/+5V pins connected from USB to COM to PWM board. PWM outputs connected to pcb in 13,14,15 pins of HDJD-J822(pins from this IC need disconnect before). On PWM board set 719-721Hz(try around 720Hz for max sync with non-blinking).

SerialSend program for setting brightness/color values taked here:
https://batchloaf.wordpress.com/2011/12/05/serialsend-a-windows-program-to-send-a-text-word-via-serial-port/
Bat file text is like a:

SerialSend.exe /baudrate 9600 /devnum 11 /closedelay 200 "D1:025"
SerialSend.exe /baudrate 9600 /devnum 11 /closedelay 200 "D2:026"
SerialSend.exe /baudrate 9600 /devnum 11 /closedelay 200 "D3:027"


"devnum 11" - it your COM number(look in device manager for CH340 USB to COM)
"D1" "D2" "D3" it PWM for RGB and "025..027" with 001-100 duty cycles range values for brightness adjusting.
Create a several bat-files with different values of PWM duty cycles, and you can simple change brightness preference as click for desired bat-file.
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Oyvind
Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 12:47 AM

Datasheet for LP156WF3-SLB1 panel is here


Where?
Link please!
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Dennis
Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 2:42 AM
@Oyvind Where?
Link please!
Say big thanks to beautiful moderations on this page. Link was attached.
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Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 10:38 AM
@Dennis @Oyvind Fixed the links, the BBCode was malformed somehow.
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Oyvind
Tuesday, August 18, 2020 at 2:45 PM
@nookkin, Thank you for the link - but regretfully the document doesn't seem to contain the schematic diagram that I was looking for. Specifically, I'm seeking a possible blown fuse somewhere on the PCB, which has broken the DC feed to the backlight.
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Viking
Monday, September 7, 2020 at 3:04 PM
Dear Folks,

Since my last post here in this forum, I have discovered som new interesting facts about my problem. The LCD in my HP8560w isn't broken (as I first believed). Replacing the LCD didn't help. Here are my new findings after countless rounds of testing and debugging:

My HP8560w is in perfect condition, except for one issue: If the screen is shut down (turned off) during use, for any reason; sleep timer, screen saver, reboot or just normal shutdown, it doesn't come on again unless I wait for a week or more before I try to turn it on. But then, it works just fine, and I can work with it for hours on end without any problems. The screen remains on for as long as I'm working on the PC. But If I turn it off, or let it go to sleep, the LCD doesn't come back on unless I first leave the PC off for more than a week.

However, the problem does not occur if reboot or sleep is done immediately after a successful power on. The problem shows up only after 10-15 minutes of use. (i've tried to put the whole PC in the refrigerator - but to no avail)

The computer itself boots perfectly all the time even though the screen is black, no error messages, nothing. I know, because if I connect an external monitor - everything is just fine. Even if I don't connect an external monitor, I can tell that it is booting normally, by watching the HDD activity LED, and typing commands that I know by heart, including a proper shutdown command.

So it seems neither the BIOS nor Windows 10 itself is aware that the LCD is black. There are no driver issues shown in Device Manager. This model has the NVIDIA Quadro 2000M GPU.
Using a bright flashlight, I cannot see any sign of graphics elements or text on the screen (as if it was only a backlight problem). Since POST is also black, this doesn't seem to be a Windows driver problem. BIOS is 68SVD F.63 dated 27.10.2016

Does anyone have any clue as to what could cause this behaviour?

To me - it seems as if an electrolytic capacitor required to switch or signal the 'on' state to the LCD needs to discharge between each session (and this discharge takes a loooong time - almost a week).
I tried to remove the main battery and the RTC battery, but that makes no difference. It still takes about a week before it will fire up again.

Any thoughts are welcome.
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Marsman1970
Thursday, September 17, 2020 at 11:25 PM
Could you replace the filter with something like this ?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-optical-filter-UV-IR650-850-Double-Band-Pass-Filter-day-and-night-10-10mm/262929678305?hash=item3d37d47fe1:g:OLAAAOSwZBha68~o
I have a bad one as well so trying to see what's possible i have done a resistor fix for now.
Cheers Michael
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Oyvind
Friday, October 23, 2020 at 2:44 AM
New discoveries - and I need your advice on my HP8560w LCD on/off problems.
I've since found out that what seems to happen is that when I turn down the brightness on my LCD monitor, it begin to flicker around the 90% setting and when lowering further, it turns off completely. Increasing the brightness back up to 100% and the LCD turns back on again.
This is not related to the video driver. The same thing happens also if I use the plain vanilla Microsoft VGA driver. I have two different HP8560w computers now. One with a regular 1920x1080 screen, and the other has the HP Dreamcolor LCD. Both behave the same way.
If I dim the screen really fast using the brightness slider in Windows, it looks as if it dims down correctly (as you would expect on an analogue scale), but then almost immediately turns off completely. The only way to bring it back on, is to increase the brightness back up to 100%. If I'm quick enough, I can slide the brightness slider up and down quickly and as long as I'm moving it, it does exactly what you'd expect, but as soon as I let go, it turns black.
If I set the screen brightness to below 90% and turn the computer off, then it will not come back on again at all the next time i turn it on unless I know how to increase the brightness without seeing what I'm doing in Windows (because the screen is off).

What could cause this behaviour ?
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